Skip to content Welcome, and thank you for joining the Figure Online Sculpting Course! I’m really excited to have you on board.
This course is designed to guide you step by step through the entire process of building a 1:4 scale figure in oil-based clay. You’ll have access to reference materials, recorded lessons, feedback on your work, and ongoing support throughout the journey. We’ll be diving deep into the fundamentals of sculpting the human figure—from structure and proportions to gesture, balance, and anatomy.
Please take a moment to read through these instructions carefully. They’ll help you get started and gather the resources you may need. Any online order takes about 2 weeks to arrive for international shippings.
If you ever have any questions—big or small—don’t hesitate to reach out. I’m here to help and will do my best to support you along the way.
Looking forward to getting started!
Warm regards,
Javier Murcia
Resources
To get the most out of the course, it’s recommended to use a computer or laptop. Although you can use a phone as a last resort, please note that the course is not optimized for mobile devices, and usability may be affected.
The course includes a range of downloadable resources, such as model reference pictures, 3D prints, and scans, which you can use to suit your workflow. Theoretical content and step-by-step video follow-ups is available on the course website, organized with a navigation menu on the left for easy access to different sections. If you encounter any issues or find something missing, feel free to reach out, and I’ll do my best to assist. Online meetings will also be recorded and made available for review on the same day as each lesson.
Materials & tools
Plasticine or oil-based clay
Such as A2 plasticine, same quality NSP Medium, Monsterclay Medium, or similar sculpting clays, are ideal for this work. It’s important to choose a clay that is not too soft to ensure better control and detail during sculpting.
These materials are widely available from suppliers around the world. In New Zealand and Australia, now you have my studio Javier Murcia Studio, and Barnes are the most common suppliers and various art supply stores. However, be aware that local art supply shops often charge higher prices compared to specialized suppliers.
When sourcing materials in other countries, look for similar suppliers or online options that cater to sculptors and model makers. Always check the consistency and firmness of the clay to suit your project’s requirements.
If we are using A2 Plasticine, 3 blocks would be enough, Monsterclay, 1 block might be enough. If we are using
, we need 3 blocks approx.
Something to measure
The way I do my sculptures is using a simple piece of paper for measuring. So don’t worry about getting any particular caliper, but if you have them already, feel free to use it.
Sculpting Tools
Basic tools are perfectly fine for starting out. However, if you plan to continue sculpting in the future, it may be worth investing in higher-quality tools. Keep in mind that tools designed for ceramics are generally not ideal for sculpting.
Javier primarily uses tools sourced from international suppliers. For instance, his stainless steel spatulas are from Alec Tiranti in London, known for their high quality. Another excellent option is Compleat Sculptor in New York, which offers a wide variety of tools, including carving tools and specialized Italian tools. Both suppliers are highly reputable and cater to sculptors seeking durable and professional-grade equipment.
CLICK here to find a list of tools I recommend to buy from these stores:
Here are a few small set of high-quality sculpting tools available from the following stores. These are the kind of tools you’ll likely only need to buy once—if you take good care of them, they can last a lifetime.
A Lazy Susan or rotating baset
Rotating your work effortlessly make sculpting much easier. In Europe, you can find Lazy Susans designed for screens or tabletops at stores like IKEA. In New Zealand, they’re available at hardware stores like Bunnings. In the United States, similar options are available at hardware stores, art supply shops, and pottery suppliers.
If you buy the mechanism instead, simply attach a sturdy piece of board to each side, as shown in the video, and you’ll have a functional rotating table. This DIY approach is simple and cost-effective, and it can be customized to fit your specific needs. Many options are available, so finding one to suit your budget and project should be easy.
Heating your clay
This can make it easier to work with, especially during colder seasons. One option is to use your kitchen oven. Set it to the lowest temperature, around 40°C / 100°F, and place the clay on baking paper. Leave it in the oven for about 30 minutes, then check its consistency. Be cautious not to let the temperature get too high, as this can cause the clay to melt. Another option is to use a microwave. Heat the clay at maximum power for about one minute, check it, and repeat if needed. Keep in mind that microwaves heat from the inside out, so overheating can occur quickly if left too long. Both methods require careful monitoring to ensure the clay reaches a workable consistency without damage. Testing with a small amount of clay first is always a good idea.
Plumb line
A thread or a cord with a heavy thing attached to one end it is all you need.. A simple key or something similar will do. The Plumb line will be a very simple but efective tool we will use quite often, specially at the beginning when setting up the pose.
Aluminium wire
For this course we will be using 3mm / 1/8 ” inch wire for the structure and 1.5mm / 1/16″ inch to wrap around the main 3mm wire and to attach it to the structure. 2m in length of the thick wire and another 3 m of the thin one should be enough for one figure. Consider buying more in case you think you will do more figures while doing this course, or in the near future. This way we can save money in travel expenses.
Hardware stores like Bunnings in Australia and NZ sell 1.5 mm / 1/16″ inch thickness wire. Most likely would be the same in other countries, look for the big hardware stores. The 3mm / 1/8 ” inch wire can be found in my studio, here in NZ, in Armatures, local art suppliers or the same sculpting suppliers previously mentioned can provide you with this material online via online.
Below is a video to get an idea of the thickness and types of aluminium wire in the market.
Workspace
Tips for Working at Home
If you don’t have access to a dedicated studio or workspace and plan to work at home, here are some tips to keep your space manageable:
Choose a Dedicated Area
Select a space you don’t need to share, as the work can get messy. If that’s not possible, be prepared to clean often.
Protect Your Surfaces
Cover the floor—especially if it’s carpeted—with plastic sheeting or fabric to prevent the plasticine sticking on the surface. Keep a vacuum cleaner handy for quick cleanups.
Handling Plasticine
Be mindful that plasticine sticks to almost everything, and small bits are likely to fall during your work. Clean up carefully after each session to avoid buildup.
Cleaning Tips
For stubborn plasticine residue on floors or fabrics, rubbing alcohol can help dissolve it. By maintaining these practices, you can keep your home workspace functional and tidy.
Taking pictures for submission
To ensure effective weekly reviews of the work, please follow these steps for taking and submitting pictures. These criteria must be met, as they are the only way your work can be properly assessed:
Camera Angle
Ensure the camera is at the same level as the figure and same distance ( 1 m approx.) everytime you take the pictures. Avoid taking pictures from higher or lower angles, as this will distort the perspective and make them unusable.
Number of Pictures & size
Submit exactly 4 pictures: front, back, and both profile views. Each picture should be no larger than 1 MB (preferred).
Lighting
Avoid backlighting, as it creates shadows on the figure. Make sure the lighting is balanced—neither too bright nor too dim.
Tip for Taking Better Pictures
A great way to achieve well-lit photos is to position your setup near a window, using natural light as the primary source. To balance the lighting, place a mirror on the opposite side to reflect light onto the figure. This reduces shadows and ensures even illumination across the subject.
Submission
Upload your pictures to the designated Dropbox folder, using your name as the folder label and notify me once the upload is complete. That’s all you need to do for the weekly review.
Structure Stand
To make things easier, you can purchase a stand from the Studio here . If you prefer to build your own sculpting stand, follow these guidelines:
Base
Start with a wooden base that is at least 30cm square. The thickness should be no less than 6mm, ideally 12mm, using MDF, plywood, or a similar material.
Vertical Support
Attach a wooden piece to one side of the base that is at least 25cm high. This height is suitable for creating a 1/4 scale figure (approximately 45cm or 18 inches tall).
Horizontal Support
At 23cm height, attach another piece of wood or metal 15cm in length to serve as the horizontal armature support. This will be the middle point of the body where the pelvis is located. Securely fasten the armature wire to the end of this horizontal piece. Check out the video below to see an example.
For reference, check out the pictures of the stands we use in the studio. At the bottom, you’ll also find examples of homemade stands, one made in metal (A) and another one made in wood (B).
Finishing Touches
To reduce visual distractions, consider painting the base in a neutral color, such as grey or black, especially if you’re particular about the presentation of your work.
Armature and scale
Using the wire we already bought, doing the armature should be very easy. However, first, make sure we get the measurement right. Check out the video below and follow instructions, otherwise keep reading this article.
We are working a 1/4 scale approx. , this means that the figure we are building will be 45 cm tall standing. So let’s start building the armature by taking 120 cm length of the thickest wire and folding it through the middle to have a 60cm double wire. Please do not cut the connection where we fold it; leave it as it is. We need the armature to be 60 cm long. We should have extra wire we can cut away at any time.
Counting from the top down, find the middle point of the figure at 22.5cm (This is also the pubis level and the insertion of the head of the femur). Once we find it, make an opening in T section. The opening should be 6 cm and no more. Once we finish, DOUBLE CHECK to ensure the opening is still at a 22.5cm distance from the top.
All we need now is another piece for the arms. We repeat the same same process, cutting a piece of wire.
